Del Mar, Solana Beach, Encinitas, Carlsbad ... These cities personify the good life.

San Diego North has a rural, small-town feel and is well-known for its gorgeous ocean views, great surf and boutique shopping. While much of San Diego is booming with urban development, these villages have kept their seaside charm.

Del Mar
Del Mar’s celebrity status began almost 70 years ago, when the oceanside paradise became home of the Del Mar Racetrack (2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd.). Actors Bing Crosby and Pat O’Brien helped establish the track—and its track record for hosting the Hollywood elite at the Thoroughbred Club. Ava Gardner, W.C. Fields, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Jimmy Durante and Mickey Rooney were among the regulars in the late 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s.

Today, the racing season runs from mid-July to early September, but exciting events are held at the Del Mar Fairgrounds year-round. Jimmy Durante Boulevard—named for the famous entertainer who lived in Del Mar—paves the way from the track to the heart of the village. On the bend of that road is the Parisi Sculpture Garden and Gallery (2002 Jimmy Durante Blvd.), an outdoor treasure with sculptures by nationally renowned artists.

The bustling hub of Del Mar is at the intersection of Camino del Mar and 15th Street. Del Mar Plaza (1555 Camino del Mar) features three levels of upscale boutiques, including Bayley, with quality casual wear; bath and body shop Sumbody; chic lingerie boutique Jolie Femme and Peaches en Regalia, a hip clothier for men and women. The plaza’s scenic fountains and palazzo-style terraces boast sweeping ocean views.

Del Mar’s main retail street, Camino del Mar, can be covered on foot. The shopping district is lined with boutiques, cafés and gift stores, such as Earth Song Bookstore (1440 Camino del Mar), with New Age titles, as well as music and art; Nonnino (1438 Camino del Mar), featuring Italian shoes and accessories; and Sundancer (1418 Camino del Mar) for women’s apparel.

More great shopping is a short drive away. Just east of the Fairgrounds, off I-5 on Via de la Valle, is Flower Hill Mall (2720 Via De La Valle), where offerings include home and garden items at Dig, cards and journals at The Book Works and exotic cheeses at Aniata Cheese Co.

At the end of the day, walk to Seagrove Park (Coast Blvd. and 15th St.) to enjoy a brilliant sunset. From the hush of the surf you can almost hear the echo of Bing Crosby, singing the jingle he wrote in honor of the Del Mar Racetrack: Where the turf meets the surf, down at old Del Mar.

Solana Beach
Solana Beach is home to some of the most chic stores in San Diego County. The Cedros Design District begins at South Cedros Avenue and Lomas Santa Fe Drive, easily accessible by The Coaster, the train that runs from downtown San Diego to Oceanside.

Forty shops, spanning a quarter-mile, feature fashion, home furnishings and antiques. Most of the boutiques are housed in renovated Quonset huts (iron warehouses, shaped like a half-cylinder), giving this neighborhood an artistic feel. Begin a sidewalk stroll at Baby Mabel’s (111 S. Cedros Ave.), with precious clothes for babies and expectant mothers. Move on to Birdcage (143 S. Cedros Ave.) for décor books and linens, neighboring Cedros Soles for fancy footwear and accessories, and Direct Digs for modern home décor items. Cross the street to visit Tucci (130 S. Cedros Ave.) for designer denim and inhale the sweet smells springing from Mistral (146 S. Cedros Ave.), a small bungalow whose soaps and lotions are imported from France.

Down the street is Antique Warehouse (212 S. Cedros Ave.), an indoor mall with more than 100 dealers. Nearby Solo (309 S. Cedros Ave.) is home to chic European furnishings, décor and books. Wind down with a vegetarian lunch at Zinc Café (132 S. Cedros Ave.).

Nestled among the retail shops is one of San Diego’s top live music venues: The Belly Up Tavern (143 S. Cedros Ave.), a Solana Beach landmark. For more than 30 years, the club has hosted an impressive range of emerging and established musicians.

Encinitas
Encinitas has a small-town feel and boasts some of the best surf spots in California.

Step back in time by strolling downtown. The historic La Paloma Theatre (471 S. Coast Hwy. 101), which still hosts films and concerts, has anchored the district since the 1920s. Boutiques and restaurants also line the strip: gar’den•ol•ogy (587 S. Coast Hwy. 101) and Grounded (25 East E St.) are must-stops for green thumbs and design buffs, while Book Tales (603 S. Coast Hwy. 101) caters to literary types with its stacks of vintage hardcovers.

In the distance to the south, you’ll see a unique silhouette among the palm trees. The Self-Realization Fellowship Retreat and Hermitage (215 K St.), with its lotus blossom–shaped towers, dates back to 1937. A portion of the grounds is open free to the public. A walk through the lush, cliffside gardens, complete with views of surfers at nearby Swami’s Beach (1298 S. Coast Hwy. 101), is a relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

Down the road, The Lumberyard’s 27 boutiques and restaurants include Chuao Chocolatier (937 S. Coast Hwy. 101), which features truffles made with fine South American cocoa beans. Nearby Hansen’s Surfboards (1105 S. Coast Hwy. 101) is one of the area’s biggest surf/snow outlets, while UNIV (1053 S. Coast Hwy. 101) showcases locally designed denim, cult sneakers and other skate apparel.

great find
ooh-la-la!
French for “sweet and romantic,” Douce et Romantique is a little slice of Paris in San Diego’s North County. Furnished with antiques and decorated in rustic, vintage flourishes, the small lingerie shop embodies the kind of classy sensuality that has been the trademark of European women for centuries. The romantic ambiance helps shoppers get in touch with their inner goddesses, and merchandise ranges from sexy bustiers and elegant robes to gotta-have-it designs by European labels, including Cosabella and Simone Perele, as well as domestic designers like Tia Lyn New York. Shopkeepers Frederique and Laurent Schilde, natives of the South of France, recently added an array of stylish Parisian jewelry that ranges from lacquered charms to repousse silver and gold medallions. 937 S. Coast Highway #C-101, Encinitas, 760.632.8854.

Just north of downtown, North Coast Highway 101 runs through sleepy Leucadia and is lined with surf shops, antique stores and boutiques. It’s easy to speed right by gems like Lou’s Records (434 N. Coast Hwy. 101), which boasts a huge selection of old LPs, and Ducky Waddle’s Emporium (414 N. Coast Hwy. 101) with its excellent collection of books on all things arty or bawdy. A great cluster of shops is found at The Gold Coast (466 N. Coast Hwy. 101), whose tenants include hip clothing boutique M Collection; it’s a luv thing, featuring trendy clothing for women and children; and Embellishments, which has European ribbons and gift paper.

A short drive inland leads to one of San Diego’s treasures: Quail Botanical Gardens. Spread over 30 acres, the gardens showcase more than 3,000 rare and exotic plants.

Carlsbad
Downtown Carlsbad is a picturesque seaside village with tree-lined roads, restaurants and boutique shopping. Along Carlsbad Village Drive, the main drag, you’ll find two local landmarks: Ocean House (300 Carlsbad Village Drive), a restaurant and nighttime hot spot that boasts beautiful Victorian architecture, and nearby Frazier’s Well (2802 Carlsbad Blvd.), where sea captain John Frazier discovered mineral water in 1882.

Next to Ocean House is Carlsbad Village Faire, home to several shops, including Sonoma Valley Market, with wines, cheeses, desserts and other gourmet delicacies. Just north, the Witch Creek Winery Tasting Room (2906 Carlsbad Blvd.) offers samples of its locally made wines and ciders. A few blocks away on State Street are several antique stores and upscale boutiques, such as Madison (2940 State St.), which features fine leather accessories, and Poached Pear (2946 State St.), which sells cookware, candles and accents for the home.

A short drive east of the freeway leads to some of the best outlet shopping in the county. Just off Interstate 5 at Palomar Airport Road are the Carlsbad Premium Outlets (5620 Paseo del Norte), which feature a variety of eateries and brand-name stores, including Theory, Calvin Klein and Coach.

East of the freeway, more attractions are clustered together: Just south of the outlet stores is The Flower Fields (Paseo del Norte at Palomar Airport Road), a working nursery and ranch. Nearby LegoLand is 128 acres of kid-friendly entertainment, and the Museum of Making Music is filled with musical memorabilia. La Costa Resort and Spa (2100 Costa del Mar Road) is home of the Chopra Center for Well Being, which offers spa therapies and wellness programs created by holistic specialist Deepak Chopra. Two miles south of La Costa is The Forum (1911 Calle Barcelona), an outdoor, Spanish-style mall whose shops include Tilly’s surf shop, Anthropologie and organic grocer Jimbo’s ... Naturally!